Slightly more than 10 years (August 28, 2001, to October 28, 2011) of high-resolution directional wave spectra were measured by an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler installed in the nearshore at ...

In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear ...

Thanks for the "How Buoys work" posting. One thing that is not explained though, is how does the buoy differentiate the different swells in the water? For instance if you have a 4 foot 20 sec swell ...